in search of charm and english books in Prague

Last Updated on July 13, 2018

When I was younger, I would fill all my weekends aimlessly stalking through crowded town centres in search of a bargain. There was a giddy pleasure in hunting through muddled sales racks and pursuing signs that deceptively promised they knew the way to the fitting rooms. Even waiting in the chaotic Saturday queues contained a certain thrill of anticipation. Arriving home, feet throbbing, but with the satisfaction of having accumulated heavy bags, felt like the ultimate prize.

I find it simply unfathomable now. Even the thought of a thronging shopping mall, all soulless fluorescent lighting and polished floors, makes me feel a little nauseous. Thank goodness then for the advent of online shopping. Even if it occasionally ends up with me owning a skirt that my 9-year-old niece would have trouble squeezing into.

I do though make one exception. I still take absolute pleasure in wasting a happy half an hour in the warm glow of a bookshop. And now that I have children, getting to spend time in the picture book section, leafing through large beautiful books filled with extraordinary illustrations, is a particular delight.

It was a welcome discovery then that Prague is home to some of the world’s most charming bookshops. Hardly surprising, perhaps, for a nation who reportedly spends more time reading than any other in Europe.

But what was particularly exciting, for me and my British ways, was to find that many have a good number of English titles, both for adults and children. And although I must admit that we do buy some books online, it is a huge treat to know that a short tram ride can allow me the opportunity to leaf through the pages, feel the weight of the paper and inhale that new book scent.

Shakespeare and Sons

U Lužického semináře 10, Mala Strana, Prague 1

Opening Hours, 11.00 -19.00 (also has an e-shop). Books in English, and with a  section of French books too.

Tardis-like, brimming with old and new English books, and with friendly, knowledgeable staff; this could be my archetypal perfect bookshop.

The shelves are chocked with everything from classic literature and poetry to travel writing and graphic novels.  Follow the spiral staircase to the cobblestone basement and you will find even more titles to search through. And if you need somewhere to thumb through some potential purchases, there is a cosy reading area where you can relax on the decidedly vintage seating and even play a game of chess.

Children’s books are back upstairs in a small but well-curated section. Here there is a good range of picture books, a smattering of activity books, as well some shelves dedicated to chapter books and teen fiction.

If you are in the vicinity, you might also want to have a peek at my perfect Prague morning.

Neoluxor Palace of Books

Wenceslas Square 41, Prague 1

Opening Hours, Monday – Friday 08.00 – 20.00, Saturday 09.00 – 19.00, Sunday 10.00 – 19.00. Czech language bookshop, with an English section and a small selection of books in other major European languages.

Neoluxor has branches across the Czech Republic, including a fair few scattered about Prague, but it is the one on Wenceslas Square that can lay claim to being the biggest in the country.

The beautiful tiled floors lead you down aisles filled with books, stationery, maps and souvenirs. The good-sized English language section on the lower floor also has a selection of fiction and non-fiction titles. And there is a whole rack of fashion and lifestyle magazines.

If roaming through this huge store means you need a little sit-down, there is a small café on the first floor. Here you can enjoy a coffee, or indulge in a glass of wine, before rifling through the nearby vinyl section.

Again, the selection of children’s books in English isn’t comprehensive, but with a whole wall of picture books, chapter books and teen fiction to choose from, there should be something to suit most ages and tastes. Back upstairs, near the café on the first floor, there are lots of puzzles, games and a good selection of Lego available to buy.

Oxford Bookshop Prague

Korunní 1300/65, Vinohrady, Prague 2 – Updated in June 2018. 

Opening hours, Monday – Thursday – 09.00 – 13.00 and 14.00 – 18.00, Friday closes at 16.00 (also has an e-shop). Foreign language books (largely English) mainly with an academic focus.

This quieter, more studious bookshop recently moved to the leafy Vinohrady district. Inside it is a little smaller than it used to be, although there is a wealth of foreign language titles. These include a decent English fiction section, as well as academic texts and English Language learning material.

What makes this a favourite bookshop for us, though, is the children’s section. This contains a small selection of picture and chapter books, as well as phonics, spelling and maths workbooks. But, it is the colouring, sticker and activity books that always pique my children’s interest.

Academia Nakladatelstvi

Wenceslas Square  34, Prague 1

Opening Hours, Monday – Friday 08.30 – 20.00, Saturday 09.30 – 19.00, Sunday 09.30 – 18.00. Czech language bookshop, with a small English section

This bookshop, belonging to the oldest publishing house in the Czech Republic, doesn’t have a huge English section. But, with a corner of fiction titles, and a smattering of kids books, there should be something on offer here to fill a plane or train journey. It is also a good stop-off point if you are looking for a book about the city itself.

But interesting guidebooks aside, the main reason I mention it is for the charming building and the lovely café upstairs, where you can enjoy a book and a coffee by the window, as well as use the free wifi. I also recently discovered on one of the Honest Guide’s fabulous videos that you can order your drink and then sit on the small terrace overlooking Wenceslas Square in the summer. A truly perfect spot.

The Globe

Pstrossova 6, Prague 1

Opening Hours, Monday – Friday 10.00 – 00.00, Saturday and Sunday 09.30 – 01.00. English bookshop.

Perhaps the most well-known English bookstore in Prague, this shop and café and is something of an expat institution. The shop itself is welcoming and well organised, with a good range of fiction and non-fiction sections, including a number of titles about Prague itself and some international newspapers. The children’s section is fairly modest although it does contain some modern classics and fun picture books.

The large café at the back serves up hearty American fare and their weekend brunches always draw a large crowd. To be sure of a table, it is normally best to make a reservation.  Just be warned, the service can be slow and not always up to the usual American customer-service standards. Parents may well overlook these slight foibles though, in order to take their kids along for Storytime Sunday – when a storyteller is on hand between 11.00 – 13.00 to read to your kids. A great way to occupy restless tikes while waiting for your food to arrive.

There is also a special children’s brunch menu available at this time, as well as highchairs and pots of crayons. If your children are little, it may well be worth reserving one of the few tables out in the bookstore so they can easily move back and forth between the stories and their food.

If you are looking for more grown-up events, the Globe hosts regular reading groups, as well as happy hours, special events and karaoke nights.

Budget Books

Spálená 82/4, Prague 1 – Updated in June 2018

Opening Hours, Monday – Friday 08.00 – 19.00, Saturday 09.00 – 18.00 (also has an eshop)

Okay, so perhaps not quite as dripping in charm as the others on the list. This new English bookshop, in the heart of the New Town, is still well worth a visit. Selling only English titles, at very reasonable prices, there are sizable fiction and non-fiction sections, as well as two racks of lifestyle magazines. Fans of graphic novels and science fiction will also find themselves well catered for.

As my photos bear testament, when I stumbled on this new shop, I was mainly preoccupied with the large selection of children’s books on offer. These range from picture books and encyclopedias to sticker books and children’s classics. Many of the books were priced around the 99czk mark (3.80 euro), including good quality picture books by the likes of Julia Donaldson and Mike Inkpen. An excellent place to stock up on some bedtime story material.

And so, should you ever find yourself in the frightening state of being bookless in Prague, I hope one of these stores will come to your aid. If you know of any good bookstores in Prague, or would like to recommend a trip to your favourite bookshop somewhere else, please do leave me a comment – I always adore having this type of information up my sleeve.

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